Safety: Fire Fighter Clothing Or Bunker Gear Information

Bunker Gear or "Turnout Gear" are terms used by many firefighters to refer to their system of outer protective clothing. "Bunker gear" and "turnout gear" can refer, depending on the context, to just the trousers and boots, and jacket, or the entire combination of personal protective equipment and personal protective clothing. The terms are derived from the fact that the trousers and boots are traditionally kept by the firefighter's bunk at the fire station to be readily available for use. This clothing is usually referred to as Fire Kit in the UK and Ireland. In Hong Kong it is referred to as incident gear.

Historically, firefighters did not have the same level of protective clothing used today. Because of this most fires were fought from the outside of burning buildings, and structures were rarely entered. Early in the history of firefighting, a firefighter's outer clothing were more for warmth and dryness than for protection from fire. In the early 19th century, felt caps were worn of various design and were more for decoration than service, this early headgear did not provide any protection against flame or head injury but did keep water off the firefighter's face. The forerunner of the modern firefighter's helmet was developed in 1830 by a luggage maker Henry Gratacap who was a volunteer firefighter in New York City. He saw a need for a better designed helmet that was both functional and provided protection to the wearer. This helmet is immediately recognizable today as the "New Yorker" style and little has changed in its general shape. The helmet had a high peaked front to retain a helmet shield which was usually adorned with a company name and number and it also featured eight rib sections on the dome (for added rigidity) and a long rear brim that channeled water away from the wearer's neck.

The early use of long trench coats, made of leather or canvas and later made of rubber, was the forerunner of modern turnout jackets. Early coats had felt or wool liners to provide warmth in the winter. These liners later developed in basic thermal protection liners found in today's modern coats. Earlier rubber coats were much longer than today's modern turnout jackets, reaching down to a firefighter's mid thigh and were worn with long rubber boots called "three-quarter boots" which came above the firefighter's knees. This interface of boot and coat left a large gap of protection against fire. This system has since been replaced by the modern combination of a jacket, pants with suspenders, and shorter rubber or leather boots, although some departments still wear the traditional old style of gear.

The combination of modern triple-layer turnout gear with self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA), PASS device, and modern communications equipment made it more feasible and survivable to enter burning buildings. Modern turnout jackets and pants are made of fire resistant fabrics (mainly Aramids such as Nomex and Kevlar) or polybenzimidazole (PBI) fibers The standard that the National Fire Protection Association has designated to firefighter protective clothing, NFPA 1971: Standard on Protective Ensembles for Structural Fire Fighting and Proximity Fire Fighting, which specifies "the minimum design, performance, safety, testing, and certification requirements for structural fire fighting protective ensembles and ensemble elements that include coats, trousers, coveralls, helmets, gloves, footwear, and interface components.

Station uniform

The first component of firefighting equipment is the uniform that a firefighter will wear around the station. Its purpose is to provide a comfortable clothing that they wear around the station, but will not become an obstruction when a firefighter is required to put on his turnout gear. Naturally, turnout gear is to be worn over the station garments during any call that a firefighter is called upon. Another aspect of the station uniform is the station safety shoes, commonly referred to as work boots. These shoes are required to be fitted with safety toes and puncture-resistant soles in most countries in case the firefighter goes out on a call that does not require his/her turnout gear.

United States

The United States follows NFPA 1975, Standard on Station/Work Uniforms for Fire Fighters. NFPA 1975s main purpose is that no part of the uniform garment “ignite, melt, drip, or separate”[1] when exposed to a heat of 500°F for 5 minutes.

Turnout clothing

Turnout clothing can consist of a combination of trousers with a overall strap attached, boots, and a jacket. Most fire services seem to use a trouser/jacket combination. The advantage of this combination is the ability to take off the jacket in situations where the jacket is not necessary. Since bunker gear insulates the body from the outside air the body heats up rapidly, taking off a jacket helps considerably in keeping cool.

Materials

According to NFPA 1971 and similar standards in other countries, all turnout clothing must have three components: an outer shell, a moisture barrier, and a thermal barrier. In between these layers are pockets of air referred to as "dead zones". These layers of air along with the three protective layers help to further insulate the wearer from the extreme environments of fires. Usually turnout pants are outfitted with reinforced knees and leather cuffs.

The materials used for the three layers in turnout trousers and coats may vary but will very often include a Nomex/Kevlar combination of material. As an example, the materials used by the Los Angeles City Fire Department, as found in their 2005 recruit handout are as follows:

Outer Shell: Southern Mills, Advanced, Nomex/Kevlar blend in a "Rip stop Weave", with water repellent finish.

Thermal Insulated Layer: Southern Mills Caldura Batten Quilt Material. Thermal and Moisture barriers are sewn together for removal for cleaning, repair and replacement from Outer shell.

Moisture Barrier: Breathe-Tex material combined with Nomex/Kevlar blend laminated cloth.

NFPA 1500 (Primary Guidelines for the Fire Service) and similar standards mandate features such as protective collars and sleeves to protect the fire fighter from exposure to heat, (hot or polluted) water and debris :

Turnout trousers

Once the need arises for actual firefighting protective equipment to be worn, also known as turnouts, a firefighter must properly wear protective equipment required. Turnout trousers will be the first article of clothing that a firefighter will usually wear. Suspenders worn with the turnout trousers should be the heavy duty type in order to stand up against such heavy weights and rigorous activities they will face. Most experienced interior firefighters (firefighters that enter the structure in an emergency) will carry, in their turnout trouser pockets, various tools and equipment as well as rope they may need during an emergency. The turnout trousers, when not in use, are usually stored scrunched down around the boots for efficient and fast access when they are needed. The firefighter may then step into each boot and pull up the trousers and suspenders.

Turnout coat

A turn out jacket

A turnout coat is the type of jacket typically worn by firefighters. Oversized pockets allow for carrying tools and equipment, and reflective safety stripes ensure that firefighters remain visible to each other. Protective coats will usually have Velcro or zipper functions which will enable a firefighter to properly and efficiently don this piece of gear. There is also a storm flap which covers this closure area and protects it against damage and loosening and as an extra measure to the fire fighter as these areas can be exposed to fire and heat. Wristlets, 4 inch (according to NFPA 1500) 100% Nomex coverings along the distal end of the coat arms in with the thumb joint will slip through, fit around the firefighter's hand and provide redundant protection where the skin may show between the glove and coat. They are designed to prevent burns to the wrist, while preventing bunching and remaining flexible.

Overall

The overalls that are available are of the same materials and specifications. Usually an overall has a cord built in around the waist to make it fit better. Because of its size it's more difficult to scrunch up the overall around the boots.

Boots

Several pairs of surplus firefighter boots.

Firefighter turnout boots are usually sized as a regular shoe, but are made of rubber or leather with a Boron Steel toe insert. The boots are slipped inside the legs of the trousers to maintain a barrier from the heat given off by the fire. When the trousers and boots are not being actively used, the trousers will fold down and out around the shins of the boots, ready for quick access for the firefighter. Due to the enormous amounts of potential hazards at a fire scene to the feet, turnout boots are required to be able to handle a variety of different burns and blows. All boots are required to be outfitted with safety toes and a puncture resistant midsole plate to prevent puncture from sharp objects that may be stepped on. Such emphasis on the midsole plate is made that IFSTA has deemed that “if there is doubt about midsole protection, [one should go as far as to] x-ray the boot.” Flash hood/Nomex hood and other parts of the garments A firefighter wearing the face-piece component of an SCBA with Nomex hood

When helmets do not provide built-in protection for the ears, neck and part of the face a protective firefighting hood is worn by firefighters. These are fitted and designed to protect the firefighter’s ears, neck, and the parts of his face which are not protected by the SCBA mask.

They are designed to the guidelines set by NFPA 1975. Cal/OSHA Title #8 also has regulations in the state of California. They are made of Nomex Knit Fabric which weighs 6 oz./ Sq. Yrd.; they are most often double ply with only one seam running from the top center of the face opening, over the top and down the bottom of the bib. The Nomex Knit, which is standard, is why they are commonly referred to as Nomex hoods. First, the hood is tucked into the collar. The SCBA mask is then donned, and the hood pulled over the face seal to cover any exposed skin.

Firefighter helmet Main article: Firefighter's helmet The firefighter's helmet is built to withstand falling objects and high heat.

The fire helmet's first function was to shed water in early years. Today, it is first and foremost designed to protect a firefighter from falling debris and injury to the head while fighting a fire. The secondary job of the fire helmet is to protect from heat, and hence burns to the head. It provides a hard shell, electrical, heat, and steam burn protection, and in some types of helmets, goggles or a visor. Goggles or a visor are used to protect the firefighter's eyes during rescue and extrication operations. Fire helmets are constructed of various materials including non conductive materials for protection against electrical currents, carbon fiber and plastic combination for a lightweight design for comfort, and a Kevlar lining for strength and protection.

The design of helmets vary from fire service to fire service and depends on the service or department's requirements. Some helmets are fitted with a face guard or shield to protect the firefighter's face against heat, dust, water and debris when working on a rescue or extraction call as well as when performing fire exposure protection. In the case of exposure protection the shield works better for it keeps more heat from the firefighter's face, but the goggles give more eye protection in extraction and rescue ops.

United States

There are four basic components to firefighting helmets:

Helmet shell: Well balanced, lightweight, and designed to provide maximum protection. Contains a Front Brim (provides protection to "eyes and facial" area), Rear Brim (Protection to "neck" from debris and water run-off), and Raised Top (Provides stability from impact from above).

Impact ring: 3/8" thick sponge rubber Impact Ring to absorb impact energy Helmet liner: High Density plastic liner, made of fire retardant cotton and nomex; completely adjustable; "NAPE Strap" adjusts to firmly cradle the occipital portion of head.

Chin strap: 3/4" wide, black nylon w/ Velcro on one end, leather backed "postman" side buckle. The leather helps protect the skin of the cheek from the metal buckle. Previous types of helmets had been constructed of a steel outer shell with a ribbed construction for extra strength and compressed cork with a lacquer applied to the outer face of it. The design and shape of the helmet is intended to redirect water and debris from the head and neck area. It also prevents head or neck injury to the firefighter in the event of falling debris.

Colors

Some departments, such as the Los Angeles City Fire Department (LAFD) use the helmet color to identify officers and functions and is listed as follows per www.lafd.org

White : Chief Officer (Chief, Assistant Chief, Battalion Chief)

Orange : Captain I and Captain II (Reflective tape blue under the helmet number is a Captain I "Engine Captain" / Red is a Captain II "Truck Captain"

Yellow : Firefighter, Firefighter/Paramedic, Engineer, Apparatus Operator, Probationary Firefighter NO FRONT SHIELD

Red : Arson

Blue : Paramedic Single function non fire suppression certified or Firefighter Cadet/Intern

Yellow Helmet with Green Numbers : Specialized companies Hazardous Materials, Urban Search and Rescue, Fire Boats

Black : Fire Explorers (now called Fire Cadets)

Orange Helmet with Green Numbers : Captains of the specialized Companies

The New York City Fire Department (FDNY) issues a black helmet to all ranks except those of Battalion Chief and up. These officers receive a white helmet. The FDNY uses the front shield of the helmet to distinguish both company number and the function of that company. The following colors denote function in the FDNY:

Black : Engine Company

Red : Ladder Company

Blue : Rescue and Hazardous Materials Company

Yellow : Squad Company

Green : Marine Units

Orange : Probationary Firefighter

The Houston Fire Department uses a combination of colored helmets and colored leather shields and colored coat striping to distinguish rank and function.

Black: Firefighter and Engineer/Operator(E/O) with a black shield, Incident Command Technicians (ICT) also known as "Chief Chauffeur's" have a white shield

Red : Captain with a red shield (Engine Captains) and a white shield for Senior Captains (Ladder Truck Captains).

White: District Chiefs and above. Also all FF,E/O's and ICT's have yellow reflective on the bunker coats. Officers from Capt to Chief have red reflective.

Certain styles of helmets do not lend themselves to the use of leather helmet fronts. Typically these helmets use crescents on the side to distinguish function. These crescents come in a wide variety of titles and are usually reflective in nature.

In most cases here in the United states the colors will be as follows Fire chief, Assistant chief, Deputy Chief, Battalion chief : white Captain and LT's: red or yellow and vice versa. Engineers: red or black Firefighters: black in most cases, yellow at some departments Probationary: Orange, yellow Safety officer: Blue explorers and Jr's: Green and Yellow

Europe

In Europe and some Europe-oriented countries around the world the helmet designs vary from the U.S. designs in that they are moving towards a style without brims. The pilot-style helmets have a brim at the front of the helmet, and a shape that covers more of the head. The neck is protected by a combination of a Nomex (or similar material) flash hood, and a foil-faced neck curtain which connects to the rear of the helmet. In most designs the nomex fabric also protects the area around a SCBA facepiece and the front of the neck. A commonly used helmet is the F1 helmet although several other designs like the Dräger HPS Helmet are in use.

These helmets tend to have in-built face protection (visors) and eye protection that swivel into the shell of the helmet for protection.

EN 443:1997 (Helmets for firefighters) specifies the properties that are demanded for protection, comfort and durability. There are optional specifications to cater for national requirements. The new EN 443-2008 now replace the EN 443-1997.

Hand protection

There are many types of hand protection which are available to firefighters today, the most common being the work glove and the structural firefighting glove.

Work gloves are a must for all fire services. They are used when gloves are required, but actual firefighting gloves are not. They allow better mobility to perform various types of functions from relaying hose beds to vehicle maintenance.

Work gloves are usually made of leather or a leather-like material.

Extrication gloves are similar in design and appearance to auto mechanic's gloves but are made of a heavier rip-proof and puncture-resistant material such as Kevlar while still lightweight enough to allow the manual dexterity to operate rescue equipment and sometimes enough to take a victim's pulse. These are used in urban search and rescue, vehicle extrication and related applications, but are not rated for firefighting.

For an actual working fire, structural firefighting gloves must be worn. Structural gloves tend to be the last piece of protective equipment to be donned; usually because the free dexterity of the fingers are required to perform functions such as properly placing an SCBA mask on and accurately tightening a helmet strap. The gloves will fit over the wristlets and under the distal part of the coat sleeve, ensuring full enclosure of the latter arm. Gloves are designed to protect from extreme heat, various penetrating objects, and to allow dexterity. Usually the latter is sacrificed in order to give adequate protection to heat and sharp objects. Newer gloves are more lightweight and don't lose their dexterity when they dry after becoming wet, the way leather gloves may.

Fire Extinguishers

We've all seen fire extinguishers in schools, public buildings, and even at people's homes. Fire extinguishers are excellent tools for putting out fires and saving lives, but many people don't know how to use them properly and effectively. It is important to know that there are different extinguishers for different types of fires, and how to handle an extinguisher. Read below and you will always be prepared in the event of a fire.

Fire Classification

Fires are classified by what type of material is burning.

Class A fires refer to most fires that catch in ordinary objects. Ordinary objects include clothing, toys, carpets, and papers.

Class B fires refer to fires that are based in flammable liquids such as grease, oil, or gasoline. It is important to remember that grease and oil can be found in most kitchens, and also in some bathroom products such as lotions and hair balms. Garages are hot spots for Class B fires, as there can easily be grease, gas, or oil on the ground, in tanks, or on rags.

Class C fires occur when electrical equipment such as wires and electrical appliances catch fire.

Class D fires are less common in houses as the other classes of fire. They refer to fires that catch in metals such as magnesium, titanium, potassium and sodium. Water or liquid chemicals generally do not extinguish these fires. They often require an extinguishing dry powder to put them out.

Using the Right Extinguisher

Once you have determined the class of fire, it is important that you use the proper extinguisher. All classifications are shown on the faceplate on the front side of the extinguisher. Some extinguishers are marked with multiple fire classes such as AB, BC and ABC. These extinguishers are capable of putting out more than one class of fire. For this reason, most people keep ABC fire extinguishers so that no thinking has to be done in the event of a fire.

How to Use an Extinguisher

Fire extinguishers are simple to use. Simply remember the acronym "PASS" and you will know the steps to effectively putting out a fire:

P: Pull the pin. You will find a pin in the bottom part of the nozzle. Yank it out.

A: Aim the extinguisher nozzle. The most effective place to aim for is at the bottom of the flames, where the combustibles are.

S: Squeeze trigger. Keep the extinguisher upright as you spray.

S: Sweep the extinguisher from side to side. Be sure to spray the entire area of the fire.

If you forget these steps, simply read the directions on the back of the extinguisher, or just use your common sense. And remember: if the fire gets out of control, get away immediately and call the fire department to come put the fire out.

Seo Fire Fighting Equipments

Firefighters are kind of like superheroes : they can see even in thick black smoke; walk through fire; punch down concrete walls; and lift heavy beams to get at the people trapped underneath. But they couldn’t do it without fire equipment specially designed for fire fighting and rescue. Here are a few pieces of fire fighting equipment that all firefighters rely on.

Axes. One of the most crucial pieces of fire rescue equipment is the fireman’s axe. These axes are designed for cutting down doors rather than chopping wood; they’re heavily weighted, with a pointed poll—the part of the axe head on the other side of the cutting edge. Firemen’s axes are usually produced in bright colours to make them easy to see in dark, smoke-filled buildings.

Firefighters battling forest fires have another piece of fire rescue equipment in their utility belt: an axe with a mattock blade, or a broad, chisel-like blade designed for chopping up hard-packed ground, on the opposite side of the cutting end. It’s designed to cut ground, and it’s indispensable in outdoor firefighting. It’s often used as a means to clear brush to make a fire shield, or area where fire cannot cross because all the burnable fuel has been removed.

Hydraulic Tools. Hydraulic tools are fire rescue equipment that give firefighters the ability to pop open smashed and locked car doors, lift extremely heavy loads, punch through walls, and cut through steel in minutes. Most of these tools come in the form of spreaders, designed to open tightly sealed cracks in walls and doors; cutters, often used to break open crashed cars in emergencies; lifters, designed to raise heavy objects such as fallen roof beams or automobiles; and rams, used to break down doors and walls. These tools are powered by hydraulic motors that can be automatic, manually operated, or built directly into the tool itself. Many hydraulic tools are compact and portable, easy to carry in an emergency situation.

Flashlights. Flashlights are a piece of firefighting equipment that no member of the fire brigade would go without. But these are not your ordinary flashlights. A firefighter’s torch needs to be able to stand up to extremely high temperatures without breaking. They also need to have an exceptionally strong beam that can provide visibility even through thick smoke, water spray, and dust. They also use batteries designed to work even in extremely hot temperatures, and are designed to resist damage from water and harsh chemicals.

As a result, firefighters’ flashlights are not made from your typical plastics. A common material is xenoy, a thermoplastic blend of polycarbonate and polybutylene terphthalate producing an extremely durable material that’s practically unbreakable and highly resistant to chemical corrosion. The lens is also made of clear polycarbonate, with a xenon lamp or powerful halogen lantern inside.

Fire rescue equipment allows firefighters to do things that ordinary people couldn’t do. With these critical pieces of fire fighting equipment, firefighters have exceptional eyesight, superhuman strength, and the ability to break in any door or wall—all in the service of saving lives.

Seo Automatic Fire Water Sprinkle

Most fire sprinkler systems installed in residential and commercial buildings are automatic—they activate on their own in the presence of fire. Open-orifice sprinkler systems are more rare; these are typically used only in deluge systems installed in warehouses, manufacturing facilities, and other locations particularly prone to severe fires that are difficult to control. Automatic fire sprinklers are designed to activate at a pre-set temperature, while open-orifice systems are activated manually without a heat-sensitive seal.

Automatic fire sprinklers are made of a few simple components: a pipe containing water or connected to a water source, an orifice that releases the water, and a seal separating the two. In some systems the seal is formed by a glass bulb containing heat-sensitive gas or liquid that expands in the presence of fire; when it shatters, it releases a metal seal. In other systems, the seal is made from a fusible element that melts in the presence of heat.

When the water is released by the seal, it flows out of the orifice and hits a deflector—the circular piece that is visible on most sprinkler heads. The deflector separates the water into a certain pre-designed spray pattern depending on the type of sprinkler system, ensuring that the droplets are the right size and that they cover the right amount of area with a predetermined spray of water per second.

Most automatic fire sprinkler heads operate individually when a fire starts; in the vast majority of cases, particularly in residential situations, a fire can be controlled with only one sprinkler head. Automatic fire sprinklers are typically designed to activate only in the presence of heat caused by a fire; contrary to depictions in movies and on television, it’s very difficult to set the system off deliberately by holding a lit match or lighter under a sprinkler head.

Most automatic fire sprinkler systems use a standard colour-coding system to determine the temperature at which they’re designed to operate. This depends on the type of sprinkler system, the type of fire hazard they’re guarding against, and the goal of the system. In residential systems, the goal is typically preservation of life. As a result, residential fire sprinkler systems are designed to spray a large amount of water in a short amount of time to effectively control a fire before it can cause loss of life.

Automatic fire sprinkler systems are designed to protect property and lives in case of fire. An automatic fire sprinkler system responds to fire long before the fire brigade arrives, often controlling the fire before it can grow out of control. Unlike fire extinguishers, they don’t require manual operation—all you need to do in case of fire is leave the building. And unlike fire alarms, they do more than alert residents to the existence of fire—they actively work to protect you from the blaze. It’s no wonder fire sprinkler systems are the most effective protection available against fire—for residences, commercial buildings, and public properties of all kinds.

Seo Comercial water Sprinkle

Businesses and public buildings are at particular risk of fire. Besides being targets for arson on much higher levels than private homes, commercial properties see higher traffic, higher use of electricity, and often greater exposure to fire hazards than residential buildings do. If your commercial building doesn’t have a fire sprinkler system installed, you’re taking a risk with your business.

There are over 100 fires in commercial properties throughout the U.K. each day, and insurance companies that insure commercial properties report that approximately half of their losses occur as a result of fire. Many companies don’t take the step of installing a commercial fire sprinkler system, and many don’t ever recover financially from a serious fire. As a business owner, here are a few things you should know about commercial fire sprinklers.

They could save you money. You’re likely to see significant reductions in property insurance if you install fire sprinkler systems in your facilities. Insurance companies encourage businesses to install fire sprinkler systems because they reduce the risk of fire damage—and the insurance company’s risk of a big payout down the road. You may see relaxations of certain restrictions in place for the sake of fire safety, as well—this could save you significant time and money when it comes to building new facilities.

They’re designed with you in mind. Residential fire sprinkler systems are typically one-size-fits-all. Commercial fire sprinkler systems, however, are much more complex—and they often have to be custom-designed to fit your facility. Buildings are typically classified for fire risk, and a fire sprinkler system designer will start with your building’s particular classification. The design of your sprinkler system will take into account the materials used in your building’s construction, the materials stored there, processes performed in the building, ceiling heights, and other factors. Once these are taken into account, a fire sprinkler system will be designed that can deliver the right amount of litres per minute to douse flames in the most at-risk areas of your building.

Water damage is a minimal risk. Some business owners avoid installing fire sprinkler systems because of a perceived risk of water damage if the fire sprinkler system activates when there is no fire. The truth is that water damage is the least of your problems if a fire breaks out in your building; many fires can be controlled with a single sprinkler head, and all sprinkler heads don’t activate automatically unless the system was deliberately designed to work this way. In addition, fire sprinklers are typically very difficult to sabotage and set off deliberately. Fire-related damage is often ten times worse without fire sprinklers installed.

Commercial fire sprinkler systems are more than a smart choice for business owners—they could save your business someday. If you look into installing a fire sprinkler system for your commercial property, It’s likely you’ll find that they cost less than you expect and result in significant insurance savings. But regardless of the cost, one thing is for sure—one fire, and your commercial fire sprinkler system is likely to prove its worth to your business.

SEO Electrical Fires,Lighting and Electrical

Electrical fires start for a variety of reasons. Faulty wiring, badly-made products, overloaded circuits and frayed extension cords all play a part in contributing to the causes of electrical fires. Here’s an overview of some of the common causes of electrical fires—and how to put one out.

What Causes an Electrical Fire?

Counterfeit products are found in a surprisingly large number of legitimate stores. These products are knock-offs of brand-name products that are sold under the brand illegally—and often the stores themselves aren’t aware there are counterfeits on their shelves. The bad news is that counterfeit products are often not equipped to comply with even the most basic safety standards. Bad wiring in these products can easily cause electrical fires.

Overloaded electrical outlets can also be a common cause of electrical fires. Even legitimate products, especially those that are designed to use lots of power and put out lots of heat, such as hair dryers and space heaters, can easily overload a circuit. Particularly if the circuit breaker is faulty, this can easily cause the product itself to catch fire.

Faulty wiring in the walls is also a common cause of electrical fires. When an electrical current passes through wiring, it generates heat. This heat can cause the wiring located behind a house’s walls to contract and expand, which eventually loosens the wires. When the wires are loose, the electricity passing within them can arc out, producing heat in excess of 900 degrees Celsius. Especially in dry weather, this can ignite wooden beams and supports in a flash.

Frayed extension cords can start residential fires as well. Make sure you don’t overuse your extension cords. If you’re using one every day to plug in an appliance for several weeks, call an electrician to have a new wall socket installed instead. Don’t run extension cords beneath rugs or behind furniture—it may be walked on in a high-traffic area, and it’s also to tell if it’s overheating until after a fire has started.

What to Do In Case of an Electrical Fire

If you start to see smoke coming out of your wall socket, chances are a fire has already ignited behind your walls. Don’t think you’ve turned off the problem if you’ve turned off the power; you may have cut the cause of the fire, but the fire itself is probably still burning.

Putting out electrical fires can also be difficult. Water will cause electrocution rather than putting out a fire, and chemical powders used to repress other types of fires may cause an electrical fire to smoulder and flare up again. Class C fire extinguishers will extinguish electrical fires, so grab one if it’s close by—it’s definitely critical to make sure an ABC-class fire extinguisher is easily accessible on each floor of your house. If you don’t have a fire extinguisher handy, turn off your electrical power, evacuate your home, and call the fire brigade.

Electrical fires can be highly dangerous—and they’re very common causes of residential fires. However, they can be prevented. Be careful not to overload any sockets, power strips or extension cords. Make sure extension cords aren’t left in high-traffic areas and are not used for more than a few weeks on a regular basis. With these tips, you should be able to keep your home relatively safe from electrical fires.